It was one of those days yesterday, which admittedly, one can have anywhere. Although I returned to Kazakhstan only last week, the initial excitement of seeing hubby and friends had given way to a dismal Wednesday. I’ve somewhat recovered my equilibrium today; back from a ladies lunch and a market, but yesterday….how I longed to get back on that plane.
Trust me there have been countries over the years that yielded more than their fair share of…well in Qatar we all used to call them, Doha Days, and not in a good way. So I suppose yesterday was my first… Aktau Day.
I drift back to other countries we’ve lived in. ‘A few moons’ ago in Japan I loved teaching English, though it was definitely a bad day when rats from the upper flat visited us and scurried across the tatami mats and futons. In Holland, gloomy days were easily spun away with a good bike ride through the cobbled streets. Scotland? Too many to mention and that was before the travails of two kids coming down with the chicken pox at the same time. Oman…bad days didn’t exist except maybe when the water was too choppy to take the boat out…oh heavenly Oman! The U.S….the first six months in Houston I was desperate to go back to Oman. And Norway…let’s just say my ‘romance’ with the Vikings and my work cheered me immensely and rescued me from blue days and lashing horizontal rain.
But back to Kazakhstan. There’s a honeymoon phase when you first move to a country and I revelled in that last fall. But of course, it often doesn’t last. Thankfully at least, my daily routine is calm and harmonious. The ebullient staff greet me warmly at breakfast, placing my Americano on my table while I do a first sweep of the buffet. Miroslav, the chef calls out to ask if I’d like an omelette…”pazahal’sta, just a malinky,” I reply using my favourite Russian word meaning small. The odd day, there might be the distraction of an unfamiliar guest to chat with. Today it was a lovely, and understandably jet-lagged American lady here to attend a wedding this weekend. I tip my hat to her as it’s an awful long way to come for a celebration. I have a feeling she hid her surprise when I told her I actually lived here. It does catch a few people off guard, including myself occasionally.
Most days by this time, the ‘business’ crowd has left for work leaving us stragglers, including the striking Air Astana flight attendants who frequent the hotel. They glide past us in perfectly manicured ‘other worldliness’; thank goodness I usually dress for breakfast and with makeup! Yesterday, my eye followed them wistfully…maybe I could jump on a flight back to Istanbul with you. Predictably, the rhythmic efficiency of the staff preparing for lunch is a reminder to make use of my time, to not squander it. Look at the luxury you have, living in a hotel, no chores, no responsibilities…
And it’s interesting, even intriguing with a revolving door of different people and fascinating conversations. Going down for a cocktail or two and buzzing back up to the top floor is darn cool. The staff feel like family, I was welcomed back with hugs and genuine warmth.
But there I was yesterday, feeling restless, feeling confined. The suite had been cleaned while I had breakfast. My quick stint at the gym was lacklustre. A short walk to the grocers garnered some much needed vitamin D and my two phrases of Russian elicited some carrots and wilted coriander. Back along the rutted sidewalk to the hotel, outing complete. Not one photo snapped, not one interesting exchange, not even a glance out to the sea. As the elevator doors closed on me, I slipped back into the doldrums.
Trying to be productive, I washed our seven dishes from lunch…yes B. comes home for lunch every day, usually just when I’m caught up in my work and would rather not be disturbed.
“See you this evening,” I’m forever calling out to him as he leaves in the morning. He looks at me like I’ve lost my memory once again. I switch from being away from him for more than a month at a time, to having him home for lunch everyday, please tell me that elicits just a little sympathy ladies…
Continuing with my predictable days, I know that the very efficient Amangul will deliver our laundry at 4:30 and trust me, I longed to have this respite from housework and chores once again. But there is something fulfilling about a gleaming floor and dust free blinds when they’re the fruits of your own labour. No, the laundry I will never miss. And yes I admit that crawling into pristine sheets every evening is, well…sublime.
Snap back to that restless afternoon, time is crawling by. I’m procrastinating, I have a writer’s bio to complete for some newly published work and I’m designing a writer’s workshop that I should start on. Instead, I stare absent mindedly out the window…Oh how I wish I could open it. The view of the Caspian from our suite is usually what inspires me. Today it’s almost monochromatic; the sea and sky melding into one dun, formless canvas.
Seemingly in a hypnotic trance, I fixate on the busy intersection from our upper window, watching the cars scurry below. I start counting Ladas, those ubiquitous toy- like cars left over the Soviet days. Hmm, seems there’s about one every twenty cars..yes, seems they’re all still white. This is rather ridiculous, get on with something, I chide myself.
Then something registers against the drab skyline. I suddenly get these ‘Soviet style’ buildings across the street and down the streets…those with no names. I understand their garish colours and the slathers of paint on the low, crumbling concrete walls. Some relief, some colour against this drab February setting.
I recall pondering this when we were out in the warmth of the October sun… the fact that so much of the city is hued in blue and green.
Do they have a warehouse full of that pesky green shade left over from Soviet times that will be used until eternity. The blue I like!
Blue, along with that sickly shade of hospital green dominate the colour scheme; at the markets, on signs, on flower pots and buildings. On buses, benches and especially doors. I sense it isn’t by chance. In this part of the world, blue is a colour steeped in tradition and of religious significance. To the Turkic people, as with Kazakhs, it symbolizes cultural and ethnic unity. It also represents the endless sky, as well as precious water (not to mention the colour of the Kazakh flag.) Yes, this light blue colour is meant to signify health, healing and as a bonus…it wards off evil spirits. Perhaps why it graces so many doors?
So, I finally rally and go to my photos that are resplendent with these two shades. There is no end to the photos I took when I arrived, it must have been that beguiling honeymoon phase. Looking at them now has cheered me, revived me…and at least I’m no longer counting Ladas!
By the way,there is a shade on the colour wheel for this sickly green… (#94b21c) …the supposed healing properties of the light blue is a lovely antidote for it after all, it seems.
No, things aren’t that bad, after all tomorrow is Friday which means there’s the weekly soiree to look forward to. The ‘gang’ will be down at the bar for evening drinks. Last week’s tales spanned from the prepounderance of luxurious fur coats, to the endless bottles of vodka stacked in supermarket aisles and unbelievably, to bride stealing in Kyrgyzstan (yes sadly an issue.)
And it appears we need to chat about a trip being planned to Azerbaijan. It’s supposed to be a must see…I know, who would have thought it. I’ll keep you posted!