A Writer’s Retreat in Italy… ‘trulli’ lovely under the Apulian sky

The cluster of trulli – one trullo – are a sublime backdrop for this Italian writer’s retreat. The conical trulli’s, with ivory whites and grey weathered tuff stone, are evocative despite their humble beginnings. Once merely garden/storage huts and temporary field shelters during the 1800’s, this region has re-imagined the striking landmarks. Trullaros, their master stone masons are in high demand. The enchanting setting in Puglia is home to friend and author, Samantha Frearson-Tubito and husband Paolo. Sam’s recently published memoir, Beneath a Borrowed Sky is certainly inspiration for us all.

Along with our facilitator Jo Parfitt, my friend and co-author of Monday Morning Emails, we are eight writers with a WIP, work in progress. Having arrived from different countries and whether new or known friends, we all have a unique story to tell. On day one, Jo reminds us to ‘support each other – honour each other’s journey – to hold the space.’

Over the next six days we do just that, encouraging each other in our uniquely different works. Along with instruction and writing, each day finishes with two hours of readings and feedback – we come to know each other’s work intimately. We’re writing of life journeys… of aging joyfully, of mental health, of love and life in France, of social inequities, of lives in London, of long-term caring for a loved one. And my WIP, of a life lived and journeyed around the world. My story is one of two loves; of two travellers at heart embracing the richness of life as the world became our home.

The setting and inspiration for the week, Trulli Bougainvillea, is truly lovely… one of palm, olive and almond trees, of prickly pears and plump golden pomegranates. It is a setting of cooling afternoon swims and tucked away writing spaces. And it’s a feast of fine Apulian food and welcoming hospitality. We are all enchanted.

We’re also introduced to this part of southeastern Italy which forms the heel in the country’s boot. Nearby Monopoli lies on the Adriatic Sea, its whitewashed stone long ago arranged in a dizzying maze of streets. The 16th century seaside fortress still guards the harbour, no invaders now, only local boats and fishermen. Late one morning we revel in a swim at the local beach, wave after wave of salty, cooling water reminding us that we’re joyfully swimming in the Adriatic. Befitting of the setting on the sparkling azure sea, lunch is laconic and chatty. In my travel journal I note… straw fedoras, aperol spritzes, sandy toes, my freckles now have freckles!

On another day we meander to Polignano a Mare for gelato, and the captivating views. Renowned for hosting championship cliff diving, we marvel at the impossible platforms the divers will launch themselves from. This is also the hometown of Domenico Mudugno, the writer of the Italian song we all know and love, Volare. Its words appear throughout the charming streets, and allora, we soon find ourselves breaking out in song…

Volare, oh, oh, Cantare, oh, oh…

Flying, oh, oh, Singing, oh, oh…

Yet the weekly endeavour is serious and by day six we have all made significant progress with new material and the editing of shitty first drafts. Group discussions around plot developments are also helpful and we all agree that the task going forward is to ensure we continue once we’ve returned to our different corners of the world. And like the hand carved pinnacolo that sits atop each trullo, we also hope to reach the pinnacle ourselves and see our memoir on bookshelves… or even if only in the hands of a loved one.

The retreat culminates in grand style with an apertivo performance for those of us who want to share a final reading. We’re transported around the world and I take the crowd off on a camel safari in Rajasthan, India. Four of us are journeying on our self-named ships of the desert; Sloffen, Denis, Earnest and Bastard. But that’s a story for the memoir…

‘Zoom in, zoom out,’ we’ve been instructed by Jo throughout the week. Zooming out, we’re in a gorgeous calm and serene setting, dotted with delightful trulli. Zooming in, we’re kindred spirits who have shared a week of precious words and friendship too.